New Trail Boss, 2 issues needing help with

[BustedPinion]

my son just bought an all original sierra trail boss 6x6. the engine is the Kohler 20 hp 2 stroke.

1- engine will not shut off when i turn off the key, no idea what the wiring on this is or where to get an original diagram

2- when i fire it off, it will idle, then slowly climb, then start to scream without touching the gas, and the butterfly still closed. (the main butterfly not the choke).

Oh and what the heck does this have for brakes?

[LarryW]

For the motor not shutting down---
I dont know trail boss's but ussually the motor is shut down from grounding out the ignition coil. I is probably disconnected or bad connection somewhere. I would try to find the wire on the motor and unplug it(or maybe its already unplugged). Start it up and touch it to ground and see if it shuts off. If it does the problem is upstream, maybe switch connection or switch.

For the idling-------
It sounds like you might have a intake leak somewhere. Possibly a crank seal even. You could put some think grease on spots to see if it seals it up and idle to help find it.

Sorry I dont know about brakes

Hope to help some,
Larry

[George]

What motor does the Trail Boss have?

You can use schematics from other machines to troubleshoot your wiring. I have scematics for JLO engines.

[BustedPinion]

its the original kohler 20 hp 2 stroke.

[Jeff t-boss]

1; In regards to the idle creeping up; Definately a carb/intake problem. It was suggested to use thick grease to try and find it. Before you do that, try starting fluid. Spray VERY SHORT spurts around at any area you think may be a suspect. Obvoiusely stay away from th exhaust. Anywhere you spray that is an intake leak will raise the rpms immediately. If you find nothing around the seals, then you can pretty much bank on a carb over-haul. Does this have a primer pump? if so, make sure engine isn't continuing to draw fuel through the lines after it starts. Easiest way to check id to pinch off both lines after the engine starts.. If it doesn't have a primer, disregard.
2; Shut-down; The schematics I have (For the trail-boss) do not tie the ignition system into the switch. However, there should be a terminal on the back of the ignition switch marked "G" ground. (You also have to make sure that you have a wire goung from your ign switch housing back to the battery negative terminal.) The small gage wire from your coil should go to this terminal. Leave whatever wires are connected to the components, and add this wire if not already there. Richards Relics sells a reprint of the original owner's/parts manual for anound $45.00.
3; Braking exhists by simply pulling back lightly on the laterals. Pulling back harder puts the trannys in reverse. One lateral forward and the other back causes a neutral steer. (0 degree pivot.) TRICKY part is that the same operation under low throttle applies a "Parking Brake". To release, simply give er' some throttle and push/pull both laterals to drive as normal.

My boss came with a sachs 293, and I converted it to a vanguard 14hp without any loss ov performance/efficiency. (For what I do)

All-in-all, it sounds like you have a nice "6-r" there. Any chance of some pictures?..

Hope I could help...............................Jeff

[Vic]

Another Trail Boss
I also have one that I'm gradualy bringing back to life. Mine has a 395 JLO with a tolotsen (I'm shure I spelled that wrong) carb. Inside the card is a crank case pressure activated fuel pump. It is just a diaphram pump but any holes can cause real problems. I think Jeff hit the nail on the head, sugjesting a vacume leak in the intake. It would most likely be between the carb and the head. You might also check the screws on the throtal plate, to see if they might be loose. Have you tryed adjusting the mixture screws, there should be a high and low mixture screw. One turn out is usualy a good place to start on both high and low. Good luck..
Before you go swimming with it make shure the bildge pump is working.
Have fun.......Vic

[BustedPinion]

a vacume leak in the instake would cause a rough run but spraying Carb cleaner cant be done, the rpms start to scream to fast to look for a raise in rpm lol, its bad, but i think the primer thing might be a solution, right now it has a hose, and a boat primer squeeze ball on it Ill try that Jeff thanks a ton! as far as my ign switch it dont have a ground on it, i dont know if it grounds through the casing time to play with it

[Jeff t-boss]

Carb cleaner should work. It will try to choke the engine out if a leak sucks it in. try it. with the rpm's raising, just spray a quick squirt directly in the carb. rpm's will drop dramatically. OPPOSITE of what I originally said would happen with STARTING FLUID. (Ether). If you have a volt/ohm meter, disconnect the plug on the back of the switch and turn the key to the "OFF" position. Set the meter for ohms (Or continiuty). Connect 1 lead from your meter to the switch casing. One-by-one, touch the other lead to each terminal on the back of the switch and watch your needle (if analog meter) or display (if digital). Whichever terminal the needle moves (Or display changes) is your ground terminal. From there, revert to what I originally posted .

[liflod]

How does it run with the choke on? If it calms down with the choke, its a big vacuum leak. Did you have the carb off?