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  • #1

    Shoulder bolts/screws

    As I go through my Hustler 980 I have pretty well went over budget already. I have the same issues that I think many have had with worn sprocket and axle holes. I've about decided to index the sprockets and redrill to at least cure that problem for a few years. The axles are another topic though. I believe that indexing them and drilling would spell disaster with the weaking that would take place. How about just going from a 3/8" shoulder bolt up to a 7/16" for the sprockets and the axles? Think that would be enough to cause problems? Looks like 7/16 might be a little hard to find but I'm sure they can be had. I'm thinking I want to save some coin and do an axle upgrade to keyed or splined some day down the road.
    Thanks.
    1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.
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  • #2
    the 3/8 holes are already the weak point in the axle... going any bigger is just going to weaken them more. if they are anything like my attex was, another 1/16 won't take care of it anyway. i went with new axles, and welded cupped washers to the sprocket tubes. a 18' stick of 4140 was about $80. it made 8 axles, so i got a couple spairs. if you have a mill, or know a machinist who will work for beer, i'd drop the 80 bucks and replace. if your already over budget, you've probably put a lot of time and work into the machine, it would suck to get out there and start breaking axles. just my 2 cents.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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    • #3
      I had the same problem with 2 on my 950. The way I fixed it was to weld the inside of one end of the hole and drill from the other end. This way I could use the existing hole for a guide, which would not be possible if I had welded both ends before drilling. I have broken one of these twice but that was caused by pushing a large stump with my dozer blade the first time and uprooting trees the second time. After I broke it the last time I quit using the dozer blade and have had no problems since-about 33 hours now. I also did the same fix with one of my sprockets. This is an inexpensive fix until I go to a larger axle at some point in the future.
      DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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      • #4
        I like the sound of both ideas.

        Racerone3-Do you cut the old axle right at the hub and then weld the new axle to the old hub?

        Brushcutter-Did you do anything special to try to keep from warping the axle when welding or just go slow and a little at a time?

        Thanks!
        1984 Hustler 980 and some other toys that won't even swim.

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        • #5
          I have a piece of 1/2" x 4" x 4" angle that I clamped it to while welding. Both when fixing the holes and the breaks.
          DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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          • #6
            mine actually have removable hubs (held on the same way as the sprocket tubes), but i would cut them as you mentioned and weld to the new axles
            A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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            • #7
              Cclingma, the way I would get the old hub off would be to cut the axle leaving enough of the old to chuck it in a lathe and machine the old weld off. Then you would have a true surface for welding to your new shaft. Probably wouldnt hurt if a shoulder maybe 1/16 high was turned on the new shaft for the same reason. Dependant on the original ID of the hub.

              Racer,in my Argo axles in a Hustler thread; Jerseybigfoot stated that he has the same setup as you. I haven't thought to ask, is there any wobble in this "hubless axle" design and what are the length and wall thicknesses of the sleeves? Also how tight is the fit to the axles?
              DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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              • #8
                brushcutter, i'm thinking the wall thickness is around .090. mine all fit very tight to the axles... have to force them on and off. there isn't any wobble to speak of... but you have 1 more hole in each axle to get wobbled out and cause the problem that started this thread
                A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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