Hustler 980 tall tub Sprocket and Axle Advice needed!

[TienBien]

So I acquired a Hustler 980 Bigfoot tall tub for very cheap. The rub is it was sitting outside for quite a while as the mechanic performing a tune up was fired and disappeared with the carbeurator, engine shrouds, and air filter housing assembly. Otherwise the Hustler appears totally stock. I started a thread and intend to put the work I did in it as I took pictures and typed up my notes...

Fast forward and I got everything running and new tires on it so my kids and I are enjoying it up until last weekend. We found a small pond and bought a boat plug to test her sea legs. Powering into the water I lost power to the right side. Chain link sheared so I bring it back home and this weekend I've gotten into it. Turns out the chain going from the T-20 to middle sprocket isn't the only bad part. I broke the right rear sprocket bolt and it is severely elongated. Lastly, I have about 1/2"of play on the right middle axle and bearing because its totally shot, like ball bearings in the tub shot.

So my questions:
1. Obviously I need new bearings and I searched quite a bit but besides calling buffalo bearing I didn't find any concrete part numbers.

2. Given the age, how long it sat, and lack of maintenance should I go ahead and change out all the bearings?

3. My research lead me to whipper and his splined axles, is this even an option anymore and ballpark how expensive would 6 be?

4. My chain broke on the actual connecting link so after cleaning it there appears to be no reason to replace it yet but all my chains are pretty loose though the manual says the tension is more about feel. I'm not sure if I need new chain or if that's a future me problem?

5. How should I handle the elongated sprocket bolt hole? I read about body bound bolts etc but I think my holes are pretty bad, only thing I can think of is welding in spacers and using longer body bound bolt or maybe a new sprocket.

I'm in El Paso, Tx currently.
Thanks
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[ARGOJIM]

I hate to see anyone get into this with nothing but bad luck every time they take a ride, though you seem level headed about this. My suggestion for a machine that has been sitting, especially outside, is almost always to start off fresh with new bearings and chains. There are really only a couple major systems in these 6x6s, engine, trans, driveline and body, since you pretty much tackled the engine a good step is bearings and chains. This will help with reliability and can lead to knowing if you have a good watertight body.
As far as the sprocket i think Richards still has the washers to fix that, or i guess you could drill 90degrees of the hole as it has been done, if you want to go splined try Whipper.

Good luck

[TienBien]

Now that I've had some sleep I think the whipper splined axles aren't in the bag for me at this time. With christmas, kids, wife, and family I'm hurting financially. But I do agree I should do all 6 bearings and the chains. The consensus here on chain seems to be TSUBAKI US made roller chain size 50 and about 35 feet of it for a 980 bigfoot tall tub. I would like to get O ring chain but I read on Richard's Relics info page that there is clearance issues. Please correct me if anyone knows better. Would I simply count the links I have then replace with the same amount or are there factory link counts? I've read the owners manual and they don't give specific link counts. For the bearings I would be willing to pay for a once and done solution. I've been reading on here about triple sealed bearings for maritime use but I can't find any info on the make and model number I'd need.

Sorry to have so many questions I've just never replaced more than bearings on trailers and ATVs where I just walked to the parks counter and told them what I have.

[john swenson]

a few thoughts.. i am not familiar with the hustler drive system but most of the aatv 's are fairly similar. as far as the chain .. if you know it takes about 35 ' then buy 4 boxes of 10' rolls unless a 50' roll is available and less cost . in terms of link length , if the old chain is loose and the tensioner has been taken up as far as possible then you can probably cut your new chain the same link no. as the old. or you can set the tensioner back to it's '' off '' position , wrap a piece of the new 10 ' chain around the sprockets and see how the ends meet for a master link . they may meet just right or with a little slack , which can be taken up with the tensioner. also, is the rounded out hole in the sprocket or the axle ? if it's the sprocket.. i think jims idea is good . drill a new hole in the sprocket. if it's in the axle you can maybe drill the hole a little larger to fit a bushing in with the right hole size for the sprocket bolt or you may need to drill the sprocket hole a bit larger . just a few ideas. keep us posted on the progress. but it's a good idea to go ahead with bearing replacement. johnboy va.

[SeanD]

I've gone through all those things too! I ordered a few boxes of that Tsubaki chain off Amazon with issues only with the links. Tractor Supply, if you have one locally, also has chain and links and tools. The wallowed sprocket hole is pretty simple from what I understand- that the thick washers welded over the holes with the bolt already through the axle and sprocket. I need to do the same thing on a couple of mine. Richards Relics does sell the fish mouth cut spacers, but... it seems that fat washers and a good bead of weld do the same thing. He does have the correct inner and outer bearings that you can buy with just mouse clicks, though, which is nice. He's really proud of them, though, so be prepared!

[dirtdobber]

Absolutely replace the bearings. I used buffalo bearing on my rebuild and they were far cheaper than bearings from napa. I don't know if mine are triple seal, but I get absolutely no water leakage through the bearings. Keep them greased, and when you put them back together, put a big o-ring on the outer bearings, such that it follows the outer circumference of the bearing and get sandwiched between the flange halfs. Also, seal the flange to the tub to reduce or eliminate leaks.

[TienBien]

The elongated hole appears to be in the sprocket not the axle. I'm taking off work for christmas next week so I will pull the axle and find out for sure. In the interest of time I think something could be fabricated locally to address the hole in a similar manner as Richard's washers without waiting a few weeks for them to arrive. As for the bearings I was hoping someone already did the leg work of going through a distributor to find what's needed for a Hustler. I live next to the Rio Grande so swimming the Hustler will be a regular thing in the summer making a maritime use bearing worth the cost I think.

I inspected my outer bearings today and not all of them have grease zerks so I'm for sure replacing them. The rubber gasket between the outer flange and tub is shot too so I'm looking for part numbers to replace everything to ensure its water tight.

[alan]

Did you ever get part numbers for your maritime bearings?

[TienBien]

Sorry for the late reply but for some reason I stopped getting emails about site traffic...

It's been a long time but I went back and checked my paperwork on the bearings. I don't have a specific model anymore but I ordered through Buffalo Bearing (http://www.buffalobearings.com/) and in 2018 I got them for $8 each with triple flange. The bearings are 62mm spherical OD, 1-3/16" ID, with eccentric locking collar. I'm sure if you called them up with the dimensions they could find the part. For what its worth the bearings fit perfectly and I haven't had a single leak since and I have a 2 acre pond so it gets tested by the kids all the time.