Camel Centipede Project

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Thread: Camel Centipede Project

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Camel Centipede Project

    Here she is! I removed most of the stuff that bolts on and glass beaded all of it today. I am having a real problem with the axles. They are really stuck in there. As I see it I have one of two options. Leave it all in place and clean it up the best that I can and hope the bearings last forever or cut the axles and have new ones made ($$$). Any suggestions?
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    "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

  2. #2
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    so are the axles a odd size o.d. ? if you cut them out can you use a bearing size to fit new axles that will work with the same type bearing flanges ? you would then need to use new sprockets but it may be worth the time and money . even if you went to new flanges also , could you match the tub holes or seal old ones and drill new flange holes . just a few ideas. it's a cool machine .. j.b.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by john swenson View Post
    so are the axles a odd size o.d. ? if you cut them out can you use a bearing size to fit new axles that will work with the same type bearing flanges ? you would then need to use new sprockets but it may be worth the time and money . even if you went to new flanges also , could you match the tub holes or seal old ones and drill new flange holes . just a few ideas. it's a cool machine .. j.b.
    It has 1-1/4 axles. I cut probably cut them out but then I have to have new axles made. The axles came with the hub welded on so I have that to deal with also. I really want to try to keep it as original as I can. That is really the main problem.
    "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

  4. #4
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    Do the sprockets move Scott?
    If so sand the heck out of the axle that is exposed, then blast everything good after you get the collars off. Recently i did an attex that the sprockets were stuck on so i drove them in, so in your case drive them in past bearing rusted section and remove rust/sand and then drive them out. You would probably want to sand outside of machine also so they don't stick further. If the sprockets are stuck using split collars to make up gap can achieve the same since axles have flanges and can't go out the other side.


    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

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  5. #5
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    Wow!Does that looks like a two day or more gas tank or are my eyes really getting that bad.. ? I like it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARGOJIM View Post
    Do the sprockets move Scott?
    If so sand the heck out of the axle that is exposed, then blast everything good after you get the collars off. Recently i did an attex that the sprockets were stuck on so i drove them in, so in your case drive them in past bearing rusted section and remove rust/sand and then drive them out. You would probably want to sand outside of machine also so they don't stick further. If the sprockets are stuck using split collars to make up gap can achieve the same since axles have flanges and can't go out the other side.
    I only tried one so far but I did what you describe already. The sprocket won't move. I am going to keep spraying it for a couple more days. I tried using a jack to push the shaft out also but so far nothing. Unlike an attex, there are no replacement parts so I have to be super careful.
    "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

  7. #7
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    Try heat and a small air chisel from Harvard freight. Something about the impact from the chisel works better than solid pressure because you can’t get in there with a BFH! Those 1 1/4” axels are going to be tough to get out with the greater surface area.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by countrybumpkin View Post
    Try heat and a small air chisel from Harvard freight. Something about the impact from the chisel works better than solid pressure because you can’t get in there with a BFH! Those 1 1/4” axels are going to be tough to get out with the greater surface area.
    I will give that a try today. My big problem is I don't want to ruin the axles so I am limited on what I can do. I will let you know how it goes.
    "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by smudvapor View Post
    I will give that a try today. My big problem is I don't want to ruin the axles so I am limited on what I can do. I will let you know how it goes.
    All of these things we have to try with some of the Argo, Max and Hustler, if after a couple days its still fighting you you can try this as it may work.
    Blaster it good overnight, then wake up and superclean it with the aid of stiff plastic or wire brush and reapply superclean, let it dry all day, later superclean it again with brush and hose off, should look pretty good and should try to find its way in like blaster, let it dry and blast again for night again, then go at it again. A last resort would be heat and blaster together but no fires, lay a soaking wet towel in body heat the sprocket pretty good and blast blast blast letting it find its way in til cool, but do that outside as that stink is bad and probably bad for you and lingers forever. Then go back at it with the air chisel hammer or blunt bit.


    You are allowed to curse and throw things, away from living things, during these processes.


    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

  10. #10
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    Well, the good news is that the 4 lug hubs are not original so I think I am going to cut the axles and fabricate new ones with the original 3 hug hubs. That will also keep me from having to fight to get the axles out. Thanks to everyone who gave advice. I will keep you up to date as things progress.
    "Racing is life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting."

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