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The Suburban Hustler has always had transmission issues, even after an $800 rebuild. It would either shift into reverse great but not go back into drive, or the other way around, on either the left or right side. It was sometimes both. Also, it shuddered when I turned left gently but not it I just locked up the left side.
I found out that the T20 mounting bolts had wallowed out on the left side, allowing the trans to hop around, giving me all the symptoms of a poorly adjusted transmission.
A couple weeks ago while attempting to drive over a downed tree trunk, the right side drive chain, idle sprocket, and center axle sprocket all tangled up in the bottom of the Hustler, bending the center frame crossmember and the right side of the frame. It was while assessing the damage that I noticed the (lack of) bolts in the T20. Since I took it out, I saw that the transmission was also sagging on the left side, allowing the bottom half of the belt to rub the top of the chain to the left rear axle.
Ugghh, this thing is one step forward, two steps back sometimes.
All that to say- NOW I'll be building some sort of cage reinforcement for the trans. Are there any designs that work better than others? I don't have much room between the engine and transmission, but I have plenty in front of the trans. There shouldn't be any issues utilizing the top two case bolts as mounting points, right? If I make a half-hoop that bolts somehow to the trans mounting plate and the top of the trans... It might work.http://www.6x6world.com/forums/image...ies/hmmmm2.gif
Here's the tub after I pulled the axle and transmission.
Center sprocket.
Here is one of the boogered mounting holes in the T20. You can see how it had dropped into the mount and scrubbed the side of the case pretty good.
Looks like worn out sprockets also
I made a 1”x1/8” upside down U band that fit the seam between the case halves that bolted to the trans base plate and never had a problem
So my fabricator friend wasn't able to inexpensively source a piece of steel to cut a sprocket with his cool laser. He said it was some weird uncommon thickness. Richards Relics didn't have any sprocket assemblies that matched mine. BUT, I did find two matching #50 sprockets at Tractor Supply yesterday. I'll just have to replace the sprockets on both left and right sides. They are 30 tooth instead of 35 tooth. In my pea brain it'll be okay since these are the sprockets on the center axles chained to the trainsmission. So, I'll be going a bit faster, which is NEVER a problem... Hahahaaa. I left my high school math in the 90's, but I think going from 35 to 30 is a 14% difference? so if I'm going 30 mph now, I'll go 34 with these sprockets? I dunno. math.
My fabricator friend DID say he can make me some C-channel that will slip over the center of the T20, so I can cut that into a really nice bolt-together frame to hold the top of the trans.
Have you looked at McMaster-Carr? They have a 35 tooth No. 50 sprocket that could be machined to fit your existing sprocket tube. Just cut the old off and weld the new one on after it is bored to the right diameter. https://www.mcmaster.com/ansi-roller-chain-sprockets
I'm not trying to keep you from going faster, though.
FINALLY found some time to get the sprockets over to my fabricator friend to weld up. He did one and I did the other. I also took the opportunity with both center axle sprockets out to weld in some thick grade 8 washers to fix my oblong sprocket bolt holes. It welded up super easy, but there is still a bit of play just in the size difference of the bolts and washers. With the Hustler completely in the air it's amazing to see how much play there is between all the wheels. The center axles were the worst about breaking bolts, so I'm hoping this was a big fix.
Now I'm over-engineering the transmission bracket. I did find a good way to hoist the trans in and out of the tub, though! It's a tight, tricky squeeze with that V-twin in there.
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