Does anyone have any tricks on how to open the secondary clutch while in the machine? I lost a button somehow. The other two are like new. There's no threaded hole to use a bolt to spread it apart. It's on a MaxIV so there's not a lot of room to work.
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
Usually have to take it apart to get the insert out of the clutch. They break off leaving the piece pressed into the cam plate. If you can rotate the sheaves with the belt off the engine clutch and pull belt into driven they will spread pretty easy. It takes a second person to pull the belt usually. I have removed the plastic stud with a hot wire before but it's not always successful. Have fun with this one.
I think the Max IV is about the toughest, but I was able to do it when I had the RIM. I just grab a hold of the secondary with my left hand on the fixed sheeve (outer) with my palm/thumb on the belt and then grab the movable sheeve with my right hand and force it down so the ramps are no longer in contact. Sometimes they move tough, but if you have anywhere near the right amount of belt tension (not TOO tight, that is) you can get it to rotate. After that, you can typically try to press the belt down to force the sheeves apart. Sometimes squeezing the belt or pressing down on the belt between the clutches will get them to spread. You can use a screwdriver or pry bar to get them to come apart at that point too. Some people will probably lose their mind when I suggest it, but as long as you're not forcing anything, you only have to overcome the spring pressure once the ramps aren't in contact. I do it all the time when changing belts. You can put a small block of wood between the sheeves to keep them held open at that point.
Again, the IV is a bigger problem because of clearance. Getting access to the lost/broken cam slider is another problem. If it's broken, it might be tough to get the dowel out of the ramp plate, but see what you're dealing with.
Thanks guys for the speedy reply. I've got the red spring so that makes it a little tougher and the peg is broke off as usual. Thanks again.
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
Ok there's no way I can open the secondary by hand. I'll just pull the motor. It only takes 15 or 20 minutes. Then go after it with a strap wrench.
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
You can't twist it at all?
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
There's just no room to get a good grip. Rather than fight it I'll just yank the engine. On that note, is there any kind of upgraded buttons a guy can get for these ?
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
I haven't tried this but have given it some thought for the next time I need to open mine. I was thinking of using a rachet strap and going around both primary and secondary and racheting strap to open secondary then wedging to keep open. we will see
After I was able to access the secondary I was able to rotate it. It was hard to rotate due to all the dirt and grit in it. It was so dirty it actually stayed open for me to change all the buttons. So that worked out good. All cleaned up it moves free now. I tried the hot wire trick before pulling the engine with no luck. Thanks guys.
What it lacks in ground clearance it makes up for with traction.
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