Thank you Canadian Zuk. I do appreciate it.
A few notes regarding this repair...
I drilled out the buggered-up holes to 27/64", which is suitable for half-inch threads. Once the holes were drilled I cut 12"-13 threads. Due to the tapered tap it would not cut threads well enough deep within each hole. So I carefully ground off most of the taper so the tap can go deeper and cut threads more better. I wanted maximum amount if threads for the best possible repair. I also measured the depth of the holes to match the factory holes, so as not to drill into the plunger bores.
I then used JB Weld to glue in the steel plugs (carriage bolts) and torqued them in tightly. I chose carriage bolts because they are stronger than aluminum but soft enough to drill out.
Next I cut the heads off of the carriage bolts with a hacksaw, and filed them flush with the casing.
I made a wooden jig to properly locate where the new 3/8" holes needed to be. I used a center punch to create a dimple, then drilled a pilot hole.
Note in pic above that the dimple appears off-set. This dimple is actually where it needed to be, its the plug that is off-set to clean out the buggered- up holes. Odd appearence though.
I then drilled 5/16" holes in the plugs, then threaded them to take a 3/8"-16 bolt.
I am satisfied with how this whole thing worked out. I got the idea from Max Rules (Brandon, if I remember correctly). I seen one of his videos recently.
My next step is to fabricate a bracket to assist in holding the T-20 on the frame. The rear top holes (bolts) on the T-20 do not fasten to the frame, as does the front top bolts. I will use Amphibious Drew's idea and make a bolt-on bracket.
Last edited by Rusty-Gunn; 09-13-2016 at 04:23 PM.
Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.