Electricians, halp!

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Thread: Electricians, halp!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Jamestown, North Dakota
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    193

    Electricians, halp!

    The above paragraph is the story, skip to the bar line if you don’t like wasting your time reading.

    Okay so I’ve been throwing around the idea of selling my 94 max ii, but this thing has taught me a lot. From the rebuild, to the breakdowns, and the struggle to make her a reliable machine again and so on, but I digress..

    I added new headlights with new wiring, (fault in old wiring)
    Added a winch, (half-wired it)
    Heated throttle cable, (really half-wired in)
    And would like to add a cig lighter power outlet (for funzies)
    Also added a dual battery in the back right for more power running a winch for a snow plow that never happened. (And want to replace with a regular single car battery, then make old battery spot a tool compartment)


    llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll llllllllllllllllllllllllLllllllllllllllllllllllll

    I want to rewire the entire machine. Pull everything, and start over with an organized, professional, and clean approach. What I want to know is, do I need a relay? Do I NOT need one? What size fuses? Where should I have a fuse, where should I not? Good place to get a little customizable fuse box and so on. I want to learn how to do this but have no idea where to start do it right.
    Last edited by Rabbit929; 06-18-2018 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Language

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    328
    Rabbit I’ve rewired 3 boats ranging from 32’ to 25’ I used a fuse panel called blue sea systems they cost anywhere from 20 to 50 dollars. They can get damp and more importantly they get bounced around. I highly recommend one then just run each item you want to it, any problems with the item it will be on its own designated circuit. Easy peasy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Mississippi
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    1,108
    Rabbit one thing that is really important is achieving good connections. The worst thing is to have a bunch of connections that get loose or corroded over time. I personally like to use solderable connections with a heat shrink sleeve to seal it. The fewer connections/junctions the better - less opportunity for failure. Also, route the new wiring harness so that it stays as dry as possible - away from water, oil and fuel leaks. It would also serve you well to plan the wiring. Draw yourself a wiring diagram, check it and double check it to avoid mistakes. You don't want to have to butcher your new wiring harness to correct a mistake.

    Regarding your relay question, relays are used for higher amperage switched loads. Think of it as just a very heavy duty switch. A starter solenoid is just a big relay due to the amperage the starter pulls. Winches require relays also, which are often built into the winch controller. Cigarette lighters, charging circuit, lights (unless you really have a bunch of lights) can operate off a standard switch without the necessity of a relay. Although I don't know for sure, I suspect a heated throttle cable will work just fine with a standard switch. Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in. Good luck.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2016
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    Jamestown, North Dakota
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    Thanks for the advice! And yes, I want to get it so all the wires and fuses are hidden up under the upper body, and by the end of it have a harness that only has a wire separate from the harness to go to it’s own location. Meaning to also relocate the starter solenoid. The mess I got now works but it’s very sloppy with all the patching and fixing I’ve done.

    Does the starter solenoid have to be close to the starter, or can I tuck it under the dash?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Mississippi
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    The starter solenoid can be where ever you want to put it. In my Hustler, the solenoid is under the front seat with the engine in the very back of the machine.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    statesville, north carolina
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit929 View Post
    Thanks for the advice! And yes, I want to get it so all the wires and fuses are hidden up under the upper body, and by the end of it have a harness that only has a wire separate from the harness to go to it’s own location. Meaning to also relocate the starter solenoid. The mess I got now works but it’s very sloppy with all the patching and fixing I’ve done.

    Does the starter solenoid have to be close to the starter, or can I tuck it under the dash?
    it can go anywhere, but the shorter the heavy gauge wires can be the better. longer wires equal greater resistance and higher voltage drop. on a vanguard, you can mount the solenoid directly to the starter or on the engine mount and have a very short cable.

    to your original question looking for pointers... GROUNDS are crucial. most hard to figure wiring issues or things acting eratically come back to bad grounds
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerone3 View Post
    it can go anywhere, but the shorter the heavy gauge wires can be the better. longer wires equal greater resistance and higher voltage drop. on a vanguard, you can mount the solenoid directly to the starter or on the engine mount and have a very short cable.
    There is a kit available from B&S but if done well a couple hose clamps will work.


    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
    Joe Camel never does that.

    Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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