Trailer to Haul Argo 8x8 - Build Thread

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Thread: Trailer to Haul Argo 8x8 - Build Thread

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124

    Trailer to Haul Argo 8x8 - Build Thread

    I just purchased a 8x8 Conquest this fall. It has tracks with custom rubber extensions. So, its 82 inches wide. I don't want to take the tracks on/off to haul, we are trying to use it for winter cabin access her in Colorado.

    Most utility trailers are too narrow between the wheel wells. I am on a major budget for this trailer. I looked on craigslist and picked up an 8x10 snowmobile trailer for $40 that someone was going to scrap.

    On of the main crossmembers had rusted through on both ends, so I cut it out and replaced it with a new 2x3 tube steel beam. Reattached the suspension. Refurbished the deck a bit and replaced the wood parts of the deck with new pressure treated plywood.

    The 2nd stage of this buiild will be to build a lightweight enclosed top for the trailer. So, I can store the Argo in it when not in use, since I have no garage space. Also, it would be nice to show up at the cabin with a clean Argo rather than one covered in snow and ice from my drive up to Fairplay. Anybody on this forum attempted a trailer build like this?

    Only thing I am leery about is the leaf springs are a "slipper" type, c-hook or open-eye type on the back. They seem a little precarious like they could come unseated from the shackles/hangers. Hard to explain, will post pics. Might need to weld some additional plates underneath to make sure they are secure. Don't want my 1000lb argo bouncing around on top going 70 down the freeway and have the leaf spring come unseated.

    I took it for a test run, the trailer was squirley above 55mpg. Is this common for a sled trailer unloaded? I put about 500lbs on the trailer and repeated the test drive, the problem was gone. Can anybody with a sled trailer comment?

    If the trailer is stable and can handle the weight, I move on to phase 2 - adding an enclosed top.
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Sidney Ohio
    Posts
    509
    Thats a score for $40. The springs in the shackles are better when there is weight on the trailer. I had a sled trailer that had that setup and although I don't prefer it, it does work. As for being sloppy when empty. The thing probably weighs close to nothing when empty so ever bump sends it air borne. When that happens you can't get any trailer to pull good. As long as it's strong enough to hold your machine, you should be good to go.
    As far as enclosing it. Personally I wouldnt. But that's me. You can get a custom cover for close to what you would have in materials. And it would keep your machine nice and clean.
    https://adair-argo-sales.myshopify.c...ansport-covers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    thank you for the suggestions.

    yeah, its pretty light. I'd estimate 400lbs empty. I have a harbor freight trailer, so I am familiar with the bad road manors or a light trailer. But this is definitely sway / fishtail problems with weight distribution, not just weight. If I do enclose it, I am worried it will get worse since the door on the back is the heaviest part. Guess I'll have to factor that into the design.

    Those covers look nice, the problem is that i have a hardtop. I plan to enclose the hardtop with wood and polycarbonate sides (ie doors and windows) that I will fabricate.

    here is a photo of it now


    plus, I am lazy. I don't want to mess with an ice covered fabric top in -20deg, with 40mph winds in pitch black. Those are the conditions when I roll up to our cabin in winter on a friday night for a weekend stay. I'd rather just back the argo out of a mobile garage. I think its worth a shot. I think I can make it for about the $250-300 range in materials. Just a square tube frame and fiberglass panels.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    one issue I am seeing is the height of the deck off the ground. Thats a long steep ramp, which will be heavy. just don't want to shell out the cash for a better trailer. Plus I don't know if I can find anything with a lower deck, that's wide enough.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Wells Maine
    Posts
    98
    Hi,
    I've been sledding for years and Twizted1 is absolutely correct on that one. When those 8x10 sled trailers are empty they bounce all over the place until you get some weight on them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Sidney Ohio
    Posts
    509
    That's a nice looking top. You could almost just back the thing on the trailer and once the cab is enclosed, you would be good to go. But I understand where your coming from. I originally bought an enclosed trailer for mine. But once I put the tracks on, the trailer was to narrow.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Massena New York
    Posts
    351
    I have run sled trailers in the past. I would park my max side ways on the trailer. Up at the front. I found that my springs were not very strong as when loaded the tiers would hit the bottom of the frame. What I did to correct this was add a set of ford air bags. The trailer seemed to track much better and I didn't have to worry about the springs coming off. So if the weight of the Argo and the new top seem to be to much, a set of air bags might be a solution. I just bought a 17' camper. Very bad shape. I plan on removing the camper from the frame and building a new top that I can load the max in. When I get to where I am going, pull the max out, then the trailer will convert to a camper. Will have fold down beds and heat, water and so on. If you get your shell built, would you post pics. This will be a first for me, any help would be great! Sorry so long winded.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    I think you are right. I am going to skip the enclosed top. I am going to build a big shield on the front of the trailer to block road grime, but leave the rest open. I am putting a hardtop doors and windows on the argo, so we should be able to pack it full of our gear and keep it all dry.

    I tested the argo with the tracks on the sled trailer today, it seemed to be fine. Leaf springs didn't look very compressed. Trailer is rated for 1700lbs so should be fine. Took it out on the highway for a mile or so, pulled fine.


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    Here are some sketches of what I was planning to do with the trailer to enclose it.


    Here the route I went instead.


    I have already finished constructing the massive shield. Just used some scrap steel tubing and plywood I had. Then I fixed the trailer lights and wiring. Last step is to weld up some ramps. I will post some pictures this weekend when its light out.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Conifer, CO
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by tattooman View Post
    I have run sled trailers in the past. I would park my max side ways on the trailer. Up at the front. I found that my springs were not very strong as when loaded the tiers would hit the bottom of the frame. What I did to correct this was add a set of ford air bags. The trailer seemed to track much better and I didn't have to worry about the springs coming off. So if the weight of the Argo and the new top seem to be to much, a set of air bags might be a solution. I just bought a 17' camper. Very bad shape. I plan on removing the camper from the frame and building a new top that I can load the max in. When I get to where I am going, pull the max out, then the trailer will convert to a camper. Will have fold down beds and heat, water and so on. If you get your shell built, would you post pics. This will be a first for me, any help would be great! Sorry so long winded.
    My advice is to think LIGHT. Its amazing how heavy these get so quickly. I built this camper for my jeep:
    M416 Build - Phase II - Addition of Hardsided Folding Camper Top - Expedition Portal

    Its basically so heavy it doesn't work too well. And that's with 1/2" square tube and fiberglass panels. I think there is a reason the camper builders use aluminum, or structural fiberglass/foam panels But, maybe you are pulling your trailer with a diesel truck and not a jeep with a minivan engine!

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