Driven Clutch Rebuild Time

[jpswift1]

Two things that I didn't do when I rebuilt my Hustler 980 BIGFOOT was add to the reinforcement of the T-20 mounts/cradle (which I'm in the process of now) and rebuild the driven clutch on the T-20. Today my dad and I took it apart because it was in desperate need of a rebuild. Taking the back part of the driven clutch cam assembly off after removing the snap ring was a bear. I thought it would have slid right off as I gradually let up on the tension of the spring, but NO. It was on there so tight we had to use a 3 jaw puller and a hammer. There was a very deep ridge worn on the suface where the plastic sliders ride as the clutch opens up, and all three of those plastic sliders were worn down to practically nothing. I was wondering why after I ran my Hustler a while after the rebuild that it wouldn't really downshift and climb like it should. I'll be getting new plastic sliders, and a new back cast aluminum cam part of the clutch where those sliders ride (sorry I don't know the exact name of that since I'm not that good with clutching). Could this wear have caused my lack of proper downshifting and should I replace the clutch spring while I'm at it? Thanks for the help.



Notice the wear on the plastic sliders and the ridge worn in the cast aluminum cam part of the clutch assembly.

[racerone3]

for as little as a spring would cost, i would just go ahead and replace it. it's a whole lot easier to put in a new one now while it's torn down on the bench than to have to tear it all back apart next weekend

[LarryW]

Going from what I rode of it. I would say the spring would help a lot. I noticed it was stuck in high range. To get it back to low I had to completely stop. I figured weak spring. The plastic sliders and the cam thingy might of had something to do with it if it would catch or hang up. Dont know if they were catching or not. Also would the sliders being worn down loosen the spring tension a tad?

[lewis]

JP look at the transmission section of the forums at the spring i removed from my T-20. Was having basically the same problem. Mine seemed not to downshift when i went into the turns. Installed new red spring and totally different creature. Once you install new sliders and new clutch plate you will notice a jump in performance. Good luck on the clutch and hang on when your done.

[thebuggyman1]

for as little as a spring would cost, i would just go ahead and replace it. it's a whole lot easier to put in a new one now while it's torn down on the bench than to have to tear it all back apart next weekend

Any Idea how to decipher which spring is best for different situations? Or is it all trial and error?
http://www.mfgsupply.com/SnowCometSp...on_id=epWwjqBP

[Tango42]

Wow JP, that clutch has had it!!! With wear like that on the buttons and helix, I'm sure the bushing inside is completely gone as well.....both of which were preventing it from back shifting. Make it like new and then you can play with the spring tension to give the best back shift. From Aaen's clutch tuning book, the higher the tension, the quicker the backshift and the key is to have enough tension for a good backshift, but not too much as that can cause loss of efficiency and accellerated wear. With enough tension for a good backshift, the shift rpm should be set by tuning the primary clutch (all from the book).

Good luck!