Need Help w Baker Hill 5000 Xmsn

[Iceman 44]

Well, trying to bring my old Attex ST300 out of mothballs (been parked for about 10 yrs since original JLO 297 became hit-and-miss & finally wouldn't start at all)... Fun machine when the old 2-stroke would run, just not reliable enough now for my needs at 67 years of age, ha! So, in my infinite wisdom, I'm repowering with a new 4-stroke Predator Max 459cc motor from Harbor Freight. Took some doing, but finally got installed and engine runs great! However, after removing xmsn, flushing old fluid out (yuck - pretty filthy!) & refilling with 1 pint of fresh 80/90 gear oil, then reinstalling, I immediately noticed a MAJOR oil leak between the clutch unit and brake disc (apparently where the concentric shafts meet?). Never had an oil leak there before, but now I'm wondering if that was just because the xmsn was never properly filled before?? Anyway, I really DON'T want to tear down the xmsn if I can avoid it, so my plan right now is to just try and limp it along for awhile longer (prob only run it a few times a year with the grandkids) by changing to higher viscosity SAE 140 gear oil and adding a leather strap slinger around the shaft to control oil slinging (like the old timers, ha! - now I ARE one!!). Hoping to change the gear oil with xmsn in place, if possible, (don't wanna remove again if I can avoid it!) and wondering if the little Allen screw I noticed towards the bottom of the casing is, in fact, a drain plug of sorts? It's not exactly opposite the big Allen plug fill port (and seems pretty small for a drain, too), but not sure what else it could be?? Can anyone confirm before I remove it & see?? THANKS!

[ARGOJIM]

There is a manual on the home page

[Iceman 44]

Aha, thanks! Re-read the manual and believe that gave me my answer... "Oil level plug is found on side of transmission." So, apparently the SMALLER little Allen plug on the "side" of the transmission (as opposed to the LARGER fill plug on top) is actually what determines a "proper fill level" and NOT a "drain" plug of any type?? Never knew that before - Thanks!

[Duck89]

You are correct. I can’t remember if any of the ones I have are a 5000 series, but the 7000 in my 300d is the same way. I also have a leak in probably the same spot as you did and also agree it’s not worth the complete tear down for the once a year I run the machine to keep it “fresh.” I just keep a rag under the transmission and check the level before every run. Personally, I don’t mind a little fluid in the bottom of the tub..:it’s all the less likely that dirt and grime will adhere to the tub and keep it looking brand new after my “restoration.” Eventually I plan on building another one of my first gen machines and will be doing a tear down and rebuild of a 7000 for that machine. Fingers crossed it goes well.

[Iceman 44]

Well, pretty much finished the rehab just in time for Xmas so the grandkids could have some fun running it. And boy did they - had an absolute BLAST running it around for a few days and everything ran fine!!

However, after they left to go back home, I was puttering around with it and getting it ready for winter storage again when it STUCK in forward gear - UGH... The shift lever on top now goes much more forward than usual and I now have no neutral & no reverse. My immediate suspicion is the little bronze "nubs" on the internal shifter assy have finally worn away or broken such that it won't move the shifter ring back out of forward gear. I've been worrying about that for awhile, as it would sometimes "slip" out of gear while driving and occasionally make a bad "grinding" and/or "ringing" noise like the shifter ring wasn't fully engaging/disengaging as it should. Not looking forward to it, but appears I'm gonna have to dive in there and open it up to see what's going on.

I've got access to the Attex manual & the xmsn diagrams, but my big question for those of you who have been inside before, is "how hard is it" to just open things up & get access to the shifter fork assy inside? Can I just unbolt the center assy endcaps and get in there, or do I have to start from the outside bearings and work my way all the way in??

Any suggestions or advice would be welcomed!! THANKS!

[ARGOJIM]

You would have to start from the out side in, check the upper shifter arm didn't just spin on the shaft.

[Iceman 44]

GREAT NEWS - PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Well, wasn't too keen about diving into the old Baker-Hill 5000, but had some free time on my schedule so finally did so... Thanks to some great DIY guidance found on this forum and others, I was able to successfully just start tearing it apart "from the outside in" and pulled circlips and bearings and planetaries until I finally got into the guts of the transmission itself and FOUND the problem!

Although I'd initially suspected the shifting issue was caused by "worn nubs" on the shift fork, turns out they were in pretty good condition and still able to engage fully to move the shifter ring back and forth pretty easily. However, the shift arm itself was another story, as the little brass pin at the base of the shift arm which locks the shaft to the shift fork assy had partially sheared, which was preventing the shift fork itself to achieve full travel under load. Thus, when it "appeared" the shift lever was moving correctly when looking at the transmission externally, the sheared pin on the shaft was actually NOT making the shift fork inside move fully into the correct position - it was just slipping on the shaft enough to cause problems shifting and staying in gear.

After drilling out the remains of the brass pin, I replaced it with a stronger steel roll pin and the shifter is now functioning properly! And, after all these years of ownership, I was actually able to get a good look inside the transmission and confirm that all the other components are actually in very good shape! No major wear or corrosion or accumulations of crud inside, thank goodness! Just gave everything a good cleaning and flush, then topped off the gearbox with a heavier straight SAE 140 gear oil and we're now GOOD TO GO!

Thanks again to all who support and contribute to this forum and others, as I would NOT have had the courage (or knowledge) to attempt this repair without help. Happy trails to all!!

[Iceman 44]

GREAT NEWS - PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Well, wasn't too keen about diving into the old Baker-Hill 5000, but had some free time on my schedule so finally did so... Thanks to some great DIY guidance found on this forum and others, I was able to successfully just start tearing it apart "from the outside in" and pulled circlips and bearings and planetaries until I finally got into the guts of the transmission itself and FOUND the problem!

Although I'd initially suspected the shifting issue was caused by "worn nubs" on the shift fork, turns out they were in pretty good condition and still able to engage fully to move the shifter ring back and forth pretty easily. However, the shift arm itself was another story, as the little brass pin at the base of the shift arm which locks the shaft to the shift fork assy had partially sheared, which was preventing the shift fork itself to achieve full travel under load. Thus, when it "appeared" the shift lever was moving correctly when looking at the transmission externally, the sheared pin on the shaft was actually NOT making the shift fork inside move fully into the correct position - it was just slipping on the shaft enough to cause problems shifting and staying in gear.

After drilling out the remains of the brass pin, I replaced it with a stronger steel roll pin and the shifter is now functioning properly! And, after all these years of ownership, I was actually able to get a good look inside the transmission and confirm that all the other components are actually in very good shape! No major wear or corrosion or accumulations of crud inside, thank goodness! Just gave everything a good cleaning and flush, then topped off the gearbox with a heavier straight SAE 140 gear oil and we're now GOOD TO GO!

Thanks again to all who support and contribute to this forum and others, as I would NOT have had the courage (or knowledge) to attempt this repair without help. Happy trails to all!!

[Iceman 44]

GREAT NEWS - PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Well, wasn't too keen about diving into the old Baker-Hill 5000, but had some free time on my schedule so finally did so... Thanks to some great DIY guidance found on this forum and others, I was able to successfully just start tearing it apart "from the outside in" and pulled circlips and bearings and planetaries until I finally got into the guts of the transmission itself and FOUND the problem!

Although I'd initially suspected the shifting issue was caused by "worn nubs" on the shift fork, turns out they were in pretty good condition and still able to engage fully to move the shifter ring back and forth pretty easily. However, the shift arm itself was another story, as the little brass pin at the base of the shift arm which locks the shaft to the shift fork assy had partially sheared, which was preventing the shift fork itself to achieve full travel under load. Thus, when it "appeared" the shift lever was moving correctly when looking at the transmission externally, the sheared pin on the shaft was actually NOT making the shift fork inside move fully into the correct position - it was just slipping on the shaft enough to cause problems shifting and staying in gear.

After drilling out the remains of the brass pin, I replaced it with a stronger steel roll pin and the shifter is now functioning properly! And, after all these years of ownership, I was actually able to get a good look inside the transmission and confirm that all the other components are actually in very good shape! No major wear or corrosion or accumulations of crud inside, thank goodness! Just gave everything a good cleaning and flush, then topped off the gearbox with a heavier straight SAE 140 gear oil and we're now GOOD TO GO!

Thanks again to all who support and contribute to this forum and others, as I would NOT have had the courage (or knowledge) to attempt this repair without help. Happy trails to all!!