Front sprockets float , no set screws. I prefer tsubaki rs50-2 chain. Good quality at decient price. Argo is using tsubaki and DID brand.
Front sprockets float , no set screws. I prefer tsubaki rs50-2 chain. Good quality at decient price. Argo is using tsubaki and DID brand.
thanks msafi65. I was wrong . I did not know that the front axle sprockets had no set screws. Has that been true on all Avengers since 2004?Originally Posted by msafi65
So what is the rule of thumb on when to change the front chains? Is it a measurement, 3" like the others per the manual? Or do most people have a reference that tells them it's time, like when they start rubbing the frame/body? I obviously want to get as much life as I can before changing, but I'm unsure about the possibility of creating damage somewhere else like the bearings and seals. Any advice?
Also, I forgot to mention the frame flex I am feeling when I'm riding trails. I can feel the seat shifting like the frame is twisting when going over uneven surfaces. I assume this is normal, but could that be causing excess chain stretch? Maybe adding frame stiffeners would help if that is the case??? Just throwing this out there in case it may be related...
I would check your set in the open position for excess movement, like if the bolts are loose. The newer seats are not a positive fit like your Conquest was simply 2 small hinges.
Frame flex would be a serious issue with all the stiffeners in the frame and welded belly pan.
Chain replacement could be preference, with front chain being non adjustable it may need changing before the others so that the gear wear isn't accelerated. I look at the amount of sag and when my eye says they need changing, they get changed. Life span is rider/machine specific I believe which may be why such little response, chains can last 100-300 hours (depending on specific chain and usage) with many determining factors the computer screen can't get across.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
That oddly all made sense....lol! But can you clarify a little more on the frame flex? Mine isn't very bad at all. You can barely feel the seat twisting under you when you go over bumps at an angle. The seat is secure. The feeling you get is like you feel your butt moving different than your feet on the floor. I have also felt it standing up so I could see better while trying to get over small logs and stuff. The floor moves separate from the handle bar. Is this something I need to look at immediately? Broken welds, loose bolts, etc??? I did find 12 loose bolts at frame-to-body areas when I first got the machine. All tight now.
I keep asking just in case we find something related that I'm overlooking. If a weld is broken up front letting the frame(and axles) flex more than they should then maybe that could be putting extra strain on the chains. I'm actually very mechanically inclined and have a good idea of what may be happening(people who say that usually don't know what they're talking about...), but I like to hear other's thoughts. Troubleshooting 101...
I plan to roll up my sleeves this weekend and give it a good twice over. I never heard how much chain is needed for a complete change out so I will measure that as well and get some ordered.
Last edited by cdover73; 12-15-2016 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Left something out
Hi The sprockets on both sides do not have set screws as they are kept loose to be self-centering.
My hdi flexes as well if I'm going over very uneven terrain. I got a friend with a 2011 model and it behaves with the same twisting.
i know that my argo flexes and you can feel the seat and backrest twist and bend!
I wonder if what you are feeling is not more of a body flex than a frame twist, the seat is connected to both the outer lower tub and the frame itself which would transfer both feelings.
My older 6T would severely "twist" when in serious terrain like boulder or ditch trails, this machine had minimal cross bracing and no belly pan (removable plywood was laid on ears at frame corners). Every T to HTB I've had apart has had multiple broken welds from this both inside and outside rails.
I would think if an Avenger frame was "twisting" the first thing to break would be the belly pan welds as everything else is much better welded and supported. You could check there first.
Here is a picture of Spookum's machine prior to major beefing, looks to be about stock.
Here is a 2007 Avenger frame, many of the belly pan welds were actually rusted thin or detached, no other weld or frame cracks.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
I think that's how I would describe it. More body twist than frame flex. It's a weird feeling, but it's definitely the seat moving separate from the frame. I have already found loose bolts from the factory so it's probably some hidden ones I just haven't found yet. The welds are good. No sign of stress on the visible ones. I'm sure it's nothing major. Thanks.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
