Early 70's Argo 6x6 Transmission Stuck?

[Ghostrider]

So I'm finally getting around to tearing it apart. Took a while to get it out and the driven clutch and the disc rotor next to it will not come off. The driven is blocking the rotor. Ive tried jaw pullers and pb blaster and it just starts to bend the driven when I crank on the jaw puller...no releasing.
Im trying to follow disassembly instructions but since I cant get those 2 pieces to budge, Im trying to come up with another way to get the trans cover off.
So far I have removed all bolts, 2 large clips under the plugs and 1 small clip but something is still holding it together. Maybe 1 more clip on the output shaft? That sems to be covered and cant figure out how to access under the cover.
Any tips?

[Ghostrider]

Some photos of pulling....that driven doesnt look like the one in the service manual....is it not stock?

20160402_163736.jpg20160402_163645.jpg

[ARGOJIM]

That doesn't look good you could ruin the face, you can either repeatedly soak it with pbblaster and whack the inner shaft with a drift and the clutch supported that may take a couple days or use some heat on the hub surface stuck on the shaft only. A rearward force at the hub could help if properly applied. (ie. support clutch with something at the hub supporting entire weight of trans., may need help to keep weight centered)
Same will apply to the disc except you could try pulling on the gear but not the disc, a bearing puller is useful for this..

[msafi65]

Your probably going to need help getting that one off. If you can get someone to just hold the trany up by the clutch. Then place a shaft in the center of the clutch against the input shaft. Hit it hard while holding the weight off trany and the clutch may come off. Another way is two large pry bars against the hub as near as the shaft as possible. Again smack the input shaft while applying pressure. Heat will help but not enough to melt any plastic parts. Good luck. I don't think there is room to remove the input seal to get the large snapring out. If you can remove the snapring behind the seal, the input will come out with clutch. It can then be pressed off. Clean it up and antiseize it so you don't have to do this again.

[Ghostrider]

Its been soaking in PB blaster for 2 days...I just heated it up with a blow torch, grabbed my finest BFH and a metal rod. Propped it up on some jack stands so all the weight was on the secondary.. and hit the shaft as hard as I could for 10 minutes...no budging. Not sure if I'm going to be able to remove it without ruining it with the jaw pullers...if I go that route, where could I get a new (used) secondary and what do you think that would cost?

I guess my only other option now is to get surgical and try to remove that snap ring that is behind it...it looks like a rubber seal is there, should that just pull off?

[msafi65]

The seal just pulls out if you can punch a hole in it and pry out. Cut seal to remove and get a right angle internal snap ring plier. If you can get the snapring out there will be one or more shims behind it. Pick them out so they don't stick in the snapring groove. Shaft will drive out from other side.

[Ghostrider]

Finally got the driven off. Totally destroyed it in the process but it was pretty sad to start with. Had to release the spring retaining bolts and drill out some rivets to get a set of jaw pullers on the actual shaft. Tried a 6" manual jaw puller with a impact gun and it didnt budge. Upgraded to a 5ton hydraulic puller and it just barely moved...so a mm at a time, it slid off and it is finally bare! Going to have to buy a new secondary but... On to step 2...hope things get smoother from here on out!

[Ghostrider]

Now that the shifter is free, I need help finding the new secondary...the one that came off was a 1" bore, ~8.5" diameter and I think a 1.25" belt width.

The catch is that the Comet drive clutch that someone put on before me appears to be for a 1-3/16" belt.

So does a 8.5x1x1-3/16 driven clutch exist?

Or does anyone know where driven clutch dimensions are listed?