Max II Axle

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Thread: Max II Axle

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Hermann, MO
    Posts
    568
    The 1-1/16" turned down axle is a far better design as you are not relying on a very weak lock collar to hold your axle in place. The end of that new axle is threaded and you should have a bolt that goes in the end of it. The axle usually requires a few shims between it and the bearing. The bolt in the end of the axle will hold it from moving. Tighten the set screws to keep the bearing turning with the axle, although that is rarely needed since it is tight against the bolt. Much better than the old 62mm lock collar bearings that would often break off the inner bearing race, especially on splined axles. And yes some early splined axle machines were 1-1/4" all the way to the end and used the same lock collar bearing as the round axles.
    Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Posts
    461
    Yes Brandon mine built in early 2003 has those splined axles 1 1/4" to the end. It has taken a long time to source all that is necessary to change over to the newest style, I am hopeful it will be the ultimate cure for broken sprocket set screws. HeyDan was kind enough to lend me some phone time and I got from him that this is indeed a good system but possibly overkill for the three bearing axle with bearing cages,yet one more locking collar to have the lock fail on to have axle move. Ever run 22" Argo tires on a Max II yet ?
    Last edited by Eldon; 05-01-2014 at 10:58 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Duluth, MN
    Posts
    57

    Rear axle slide

    I have a 1980 max II upgraded with the Briggs 20hp. Has new outer tub bearings which I didn't install , I bought it with them installed. The axles I believe are the older style/ hollow. I'm having an issue with one of my rear axles. The 2 Allen set screw keep loosening and the axle moves in and causing the rear chain and sprocket to move towards and rub on the frame and the chain to be out of alignment I keep moving it back and re tightening the set screws. But still does this every ride. This I believe is the only axle I'm having issues with. Any suggestions? Thanks. Dan

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,055
    If your machine currently has the set screw only bearings , you could install the eccentric locking collar style bearing like came from the factory. You could also install a split ring collar on the inside of the current bearing, or both a locking collar bearing and a split collar which is what many are doing now.
    The 2 set screws just don't have enough contact area to hold the axle from moving.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Duluth, MN
    Posts
    57
    why do you suppose they went with this style if the factory bearings were better? don't get it ? usually when they make an upgrade from the factory it supposed to be better isn't it?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,055
    The easiest fix would be to drill two shallow recesses for the set screws to sit in, use knurled point set screws with blue locktite on them. I don't believe the factory ever used set screw only bearings, all I have actually looked at had eccentric collared bearings.

    If the inner frame rail is flat where your issue is you could try to install a mounted bearing there as well to aid in axle retention.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Charlotte, Mi/ Houghton Lake Mi
    Posts
    2,910
    Quote Originally Posted by Dano1877 View Post
    why do you suppose they went with this style if the factory bearings were better? don't get it ? usually when they make an upgrade from the factory it supposed to be better isn't it?
    The factory has always used bearings with the eccentric locking collar.....they just don't rely on them for axle retention anymore.
    I use a split locking collar. They are cheap, easy to install and wont let the axle slip.
    You can also use a spacer between the outer bearing and sprocket tube. 1 1/2" PVC pipe works.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Duluth, MN
    Posts
    57
    Who's got split locking collars? And thanks for the help guys.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    142
    If you do a search on Ebay for locking split collars there are quite a few people selling them. i think i found 4 for 12-15$ and free shipping.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    New Brunswick,Canada
    Posts
    461
    Well after a bit of a struggle getting all the parts together I finally got the (new to me) style axle installed and it appears to work great. Used one shim on the end of the axle at the collar on the new inner bearing and while there was no room to use shims by the snap rings at the triple sprocket,still it aligned perfectly. It is a good system though in conversation with Hey Dan, formerly with Recreatives, on the phone we agreed that in my case the older system was more than adequate as my machine has bearing cages with an additional outer bearing/locking collar. Frankly the absolute last thing I am worried about with my other five original axles is the axle pulling out. It is a major battle to get the axle out when you are trying,lock collars released. All this said ,yes the new system is good. My bearing man tells me the inner bearing is a hard source as 1 1/16" is rare in bearing inner measurements.

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