Safe decent water travel is partially what I designed it for with 24" of verticle side I have done the calcs. for bouyancy and it comes out to 6000lbs to sink it to the lip. 1300 lbs should put it at 4.3 " into the water again I dont know what the tires will add in either direction. but at least the pump will be submerged. I want to build a hood over the front bow maby 12ga. aluminum to cover it and improve the looks hinging with a couple spring shocks to help keep water off legs in the front.
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Custom made volkswagon powered 8x8 with sea doo pump
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Wow with the engine installed I still have a good 20 inches from the rear pully to the sea doo pump housing. Bored a hole for the pump drive shaft thru the rear of the hull and installed the shaft its to long and will have to be shortened. Fabbed a dash board and will install the stock VW speedometer and my fish finder need to buy some more metal and bolts though. Any questions? any suggestions?
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Looks nice. I commented on the photo you posted on the VW motor thread, but I see you have been quite busy. Very nice work.Attex 295 Wild Wolf: sigpic My Runner
Attex 252? Colt? Racer 80%: My Racer to be..... SOMEDAY
Attex Super Chief - Sold.
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That means alot comming from someone as experienced as you RayLast edited by chris davison; 01-04-2011, 01:45 PM.
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Well iv'e bolted the winch on the front revised some support bars. My exhaust sys. has arrived and will need modification. Just waiting for some cash to do some machine work on all the parts. I have also recieved some 1/8 Delrin to go under the axle chains so they dont rub the bottom of the hull so now I can install all the chains on the axles and start to devise chain tentioners.
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Wow what drag I have so many parts and so much I could do and Im stuck working 7 days a week on graveyard some days 10 hrs. thankfully I finished Hydraulic school. Hey Ray I have an Idea on your props
in the water if you cant lower them below the hull can you weld in a 6 in diameter aluminum tube thru the hull from front to rear ending dead center of the props? or even start them some where in the bottom
tilting up to the props? this would make reverse effective also. But they would be really effective if the prop was inside the tube.
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Originally posted by chris davison View PostWow what drag I have so many parts and so much I could do and Im stuck working 7 days a week on graveyard some days 10 hrs. thankfully I finished Hydraulic school. Hey Ray I have an Idea on your props
in the water if you cant lower them below the hull can you weld in a 6 in diameter aluminum tube thru the hull from front to rear ending dead center of the props? or even start them some where in the bottom
tilting up to the props? this would make reverse effective also. But they would be really effective if the prop was inside the tube.
I think you have a much better chance to get some decent water speed using a jet pump, you should do a little better than the Chinese Argo guy that uses a similar setup, because of your hull design. I do have a swing down prop design, but it adds more complexity and didn't pass the cost/benefit analysis. IMO, the only way to get "real water speed", is to raise the tires out of the water, and design for a semi or planing hull. Chris your half-way there. Put that hydraulic course to use, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.
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Like I said in another post If I had it to do over again I would use trailing arm suspension with wheel motors( Hyd of course) that way i could rotate the suspension right up out of the water. Ive never seen a hydrotraxx or coot or hustler or anything but an Argo conquest and thats when I decided to make my own. I dont think there is anything out there like what I want.
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