My first Hustler!

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Thread: My first Hustler!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    Martin, we can help you get that frame looking like new again. It seems like the battery tray will need to be replaced and the lower "L" shaped bend on the right front frame rail can be repaired and stiffened up and made stronger than it was when it was new. No worries at all, you're in good shape. Get the frame out and Drew, Mark, and Mike and I can help you get it squared away. I've had frames that were worse than this one, you'll be in good shape. Once we get the new steel welded on there, a good sandblasting will put you right where you need to be. While you're waiting, start soaking all the axle pins in penetrating oil to help free everything up for you this weekend when you go to yank the frame out.

    I keep looking at the first pic of it on the trailer, and I can tell that thing is going to be nice when you're done with it! It has lots of potential. Don't get discouraged, this is how mine looked when I bought it, sight unseen down in Alabama:

    Last edited by jpswift1; 03-05-2013 at 01:32 AM.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY area
    Posts
    2,968
    Oh baby, your front-right side rail is toast. Does the rusted out section extend to the chain adjuster bracket? It looks like there's mild to moderate carnage on the inside of the center rail, as well. Eh, it's just metal.... Metal's cheap. I've been getting lot of my mild steel up at Lake Winds Steel up on Route 18, between 98 and 63. It's a small, Amish-owned shop and they've got a great inventory, and their prices are really competitive. It's worth it just to go up and see an entire diesel-over-pneumatic-run machine shop.

    I see that either Hustler or a past-owner has reenforced the front chain adjusters (where the 1" square tubing is laid on its side and welded to the Unistrut). That'll help a bunch. Some good stiffening of the transmission mount, and an extra brace or two to hold the top of the transmission in its cradle will go a long way, too. It seems the transmissions always want to walk right out of the mounts on these machines. I'll be interested to see if your axles are worn at all. The axles on mine were some reasonably hard material, but they still wore out quite a bit where the outer bearings ride. If the tolerance isn't tight enough, you'll keep breaking the races beneath the eccentric locking collars. Before I knew just *how* tight they needed to be, I wasted a lot of money on nice triple-sealed bearings. I ended up welding up the offending areas and turning them back down to the right diameter on three of them. The front two axles I just said effit and "4140'd" them. When I win the lottery, I'll do the other 4....
    Last edited by hydromike; 03-05-2013 at 11:47 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    Man Jeff, that's crazy how nice that white spot clean up on your machine by using just a heat gun! My upper is going to need a bit of work to look my lower, which I think is still in quite decent shape.

    Mike - Yes, unfortunatley the carnage does extend to the chain adjuster bracket. I hope to lift the frame out on Saturday to get a better look at it. I'll also be able to get a better look at may axles, too. I am curious to see what condition they are in.
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    Your upper will look like new again after we're done with it. In fact, your entire machine will look like new......you do good work!

    http://www.6x6world.com/forums/conte...hdpe-body.html

    http://www.6x6world.com/forums/conte...oxidation.html
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Western New York
    Posts
    457
    I am going to be making the trip to the place I use for sandblasting on Saturday with some of the stuff for my hustler. On 2 of the six wheels, there are no center holes and the area around the 5 stud holes are 'flat' and not 'domed' like the other wheels. Any thoughts/comments on these wheels? Are these 2 wheels probably aftermarket replacements or were 2 wheels on these hustlers different? I just thought it was odd and am seeking clarification if anybody knows

    The wheel(s) in question:

    DSCN2455.jpg

    The 'normal' wheel:

    DSCN2447.jpg

    All of the wheels. (you can see why they need sandblasting)

    DSCN2461.jpg
    -Attex ST/300/D - "The Duck." Family owned since the early '70's
    -Attex ST/300/D- A-stock racer build! (not yet started)
    -Attex 440 Thunderchief Racer (not yet started)
    -Attex ST/400 (not yet started)
    -Hustler 980 BIGFOOT- A work in progress (SOLD)
    -1999 Max Buffalo Truck (SOLD)
    -1989 Max IV - A Max four my kids. (In progress)

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,055
    They are most likely K-lock rims like used by Max, run the lug nuts backwards.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NJ 08533
    Posts
    5,055
    Oh sorry, didn't notice no center hole.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    6,442
    These aren't K lock wheels. If they were they'd have KMM stamped on them. These were probably off of some sort of garden tractor or some kind of equipment like a smaller trencher or something. That kind of machinery shares the 5x4.5" bolt pattern.
    "Looks like you have a problem with your 4 wheeler........you're missin' two wheels there"

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Oconee County, SC
    Posts
    823
    I got my wheels from Silverstone mfg. They where closeouts 12x10.5 5 hole with open centers, they where $25 each. The center plate is heavy duty steel about 9/32" thick. Call them to see if they still have any..

    Silverstone, Inc
    4350 McKinley St.
    Omaha, NE 68112
    (402)-455-4910

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    West Central Louisiana near Toledo Bend Reservoir
    Posts
    1,059
    Glad to see you're making some progress. I think those oddball wheels are off a ditch witch, I seem to remember seeing an old one some years back with the solid centers. Not certain though. BTW did you ever call that Moneymaker guy.LOL
    DESTRUCTION is just a couple of vowels down the street from DISTRACTION

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