Dan67's Hustler 950 Rebuild

[Dan67]

I have tried again to remove that stubborn axle. It just will not come out of the inner bearing. I have tried cleaning the axle and soaking it in pb-blaster. I really don't want to cut the old body to get it off the frame. I would hate to have to use my dremil tool and cut the body off the frame. A last resort would be to have the axle cut off close to the offending bearing with a torch. I really need some advice here guys.

[lewis]

Try coming through the opposite side of the machine with a smaller rod and this will give you a lot more punch on the axle end. Do not flare it. Other option is if the side with all the removed axles can be lifted(wood blocks used to crib it for support) and you can get a 2 or 3 jaw bearing pulled under the frame this will act as a press and will push the axle out. They come in varying sizes.

Lean the machine to one side where the PB can find its way down hill may also loosen this up. The bearing puller can be rented from automotive stores and saves the expense of buying one. Last resort would be to destroy a good axle. Hope this works to get that axle out.

[micmac]

Dan,

Not sure if you have a grinder with a cutting wheel but that may be your best option, I'd avoid the torch. I know it's not ideal to cut the axle but in two minuets it will be out. I had to do this on my Max. I'm sure Whipper could make you a new axle.

Mike

[lewis]

Just a tip for re-installation. When i built the Crush i pre-fitted each bearing to each axle. Each bearing was marked to correspond with it's axle. Final step was to apply anti-sieze to each axle bearing surface. Makes final installation a breeze. Use Emery cloth for fine tuning each bearing to it's own axle. While a spring is a little different it is still the same basic operation, just more parts.

Hope this helps

[Dan67]

Thank you very much guys! I got that stubborn axle out. I did not have to cut it. I went to my dad's to borrow his gear puller, but he already broke it. I took a trip up to Harbor Freight and picked up a new set of pullers and a shop press. I let the axle soak in PB Blaster on an incline just like Lewis said using a block under it to prop up the other end. I put the gear puller on and it pushed it out of the bearing. Saved the axle

[Dan67]

The frame, tubs, T-20, and a few other parts are at the fabricator's shop. It should be there about 3 weeks. It is not a priority job for them, a dime won't hold up dollar job. I should have had my camera with me but I'll stop in from time to time and see the progress on it and photograph it as it evolves. I pressure washed it really good and when we got it there we started inspecting the frame and found about a dozen small cracks all over the frame. The plan is to reinforce the weak side rails with heavier stock. I'm really looking forward to getting it back.

In the meantime, I need to order some bearings, locking collars, and 3-bolt flanges. I'll call Buffalo Bearings tomorrow. Are these the right part numbers for bearings?

Outer Bearing: HC 206-19 R3 62mm OD, 1-3/16" ID, Triple Lip Seal
Inner Bearing: SA 205-16 52mm OD, 1" ID

Does anyone have a number for the flanges and locking collars for the Hustlers?

[Stonewall]

Those look to be the correct part #'s (they're the same ones listed in my thread...). The locking collars come with the bearings, but I don't know about the flanges.(Hope someone else does, I need some too!)

Good luck with your conversion, looks great so far!!

[jpswift1]

Does anyone have a number for the flanges and locking collars for the Hustlers?

The outter flanges are the same ones as the 62mm Max II ones.

[Dan67]

Bearings and ANSI 50 chain connecting links ordered. New 23hp Vanguard will be here Friday. Unable to get thru to RI to get new flanges ordered today, I'll try again tomorrow. I need to get 1 more switch, and plenty of wire to wire the electrical. New engine bay fan, lights, bilge pump, and so on.. Stuff is gonna be crazy the next few weeks.

[Dan67]

I have all my switches, wire loom, marine grade aux power port, and a lighted voltage meter. I plan to wire it with a toggle switches for: Front Light, Backup Light, Engine Bay Fan, Bilge Pump, Power Port. What gauge wire should I use? The fan pulls the most at 4.7 amp, all the others are 3 amp and under. I was thinking of using 14 AWG wire from Jegs JEGS Performance Auto Parts - Holley - Billet Specialties - Edelbrock - MSD - Moroso - Mr Gasket