removing rust

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Thread: removing rust

  1. #11
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    You can use this same technology to boost the mileage on your autos. I have a couple of friends who run these systems on their trucks, one of them is now getting 39mpg in an S-10 pick up, he saw a 33% increase in mileage - cool! They use stainless steel for electrodes, becaues it doesn't break down as quickly as copper and other materials.

  2. #12
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    here is a link to a pdf on the subject. it warns against using stainless steel for the electrodes. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by simpleton7016 View Post
    also, if you can find it, pure graphite is supposed to be the best electrode. I did a small search for it once and could not find a reasonably priced supplier.
    you can use steel but if you need graphite, carbon electrodes made for gouging (or for twin carbon arc torch (for people with a welder but no acethylene))

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerone3 View Post
    here is a link to a pdf on the subject. it warns against using stainless steel for the electrodes. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolysis.pdf
    I know were talking about different uses of the same process, so there is no water to pour down the drain. But, good safety info Racer, now you got me wondering what happens to this stuff when it is burned in the combustion chamber of an engine?

    Did a search on Chromiumvi - scary, real scary!

  5. #15
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    it's a really easy process and works well, but if you use the wrong stuff for electrodes or electrolyte you can get some scary results. polarity is also crucial... get it wrong and you will destroy your part and clean your consumable electrodes. i've been using my tank sense i got laid off and don't have access to a sandblaster... does just as well for rust removal, just takes a little longer. my sons mini 6x6 got striped tonight and the frame is bubbling away in the tank right now.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  6. #16
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    This site is great! I havent had this much fun since i was a kid. I set-up a small cleaning operation using plain baking soda and a regulated 12vdc 3a power supply. Really works nice. 3a at 12vdc probably cheaper than 3hp air comp. motor also.Couple things though, does the part stop bubbling when all the conversion is done? And,what do we suppose the black residue left behind is?

  7. #17
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    not sure what the black residue is, but it scrubs right off with a little scotch brite. when the bubbles stop it isn't cleaning anymore... it's either done, or you need to scrape a layer off and put it back in.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

  8. #18
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    Does it leave a film on the metal, how do you prep it for painting?
    Last edited by PlumCrazy; 03-30-2010 at 08:26 PM.

  9. #19
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    Soda Ash sold for adjusting pH in swimmings pools works well as electrolyte, and is pretty cheap.
    1 Hustler 880, 1.5 Coots, formerly an Imp Kadoo

  10. #20
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    Brookfield, Wisconsin
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    I just use a hand held wire brush and scrub the residue off under water. In the summer, I will take the parts outside and blast them with a pressure washer. Once they are dry, I immediately coat them with a rust converter/inhibiter. That will keep them from rusting until they are ready for paint.

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