You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Looking forward to seeing you in the forums and talking about AATVs!
Has anyone tried to use one of the rubberized coatings to paint and seal their sixes . somethng like is used in bed liners, Rhino lining, bull hide, tuff coat something of that nature. I am thinking of using this to coat the lower hull to seal and protect. the wedge is fiberglass so it should stick very well
I was looking to refinish my Max II upper (not that the tan is bad, but I want something with more curb appeal!) and had considered using one of the kits that you can find at an automotive store. I think it would be best to test on a chunk of similar poly.
As for the underside... I'm gathering the materials to diamond plate the underside. I'm not going crazy on it, just cutting sheets of the thinner stuff to fit in the open areas and then just putting into place with RTV silicone. This should protect a bit and be easy to remove if needed. What do you think?
I was thinking of the diamond plate because of the toughness, but going with the smooth plate would be better. Perhaps I could still use the daimond plate for the front forward facing plate for the look.
As for the kit: There is a do-it-yourself pickup truck bed liner kit at VIP (automotive store) that comes with what is needed to do one vehicle for about $100. I found it even cheaper on eBay. I did notice that on some of the kits you control the "lumpyness" by the amount of particulates you add separately. As Tanker pointed out for the plating, smoothness in the body finish would help reduce stuff "MUD" from taking hold. It should stick well and could be touched up with ease.
Has anyone ever installed a kind of "rubber baby buggy bumper"? My wife had to shake her head when during my brother's first ride he headed toward the barn and I hesitated only briefly before putting my hand between Baby and building. Mike, isn't there a thread of some one getting hurt doing similar?
Below is a link to an eBay auction for some stuff called Herculiner Roll-On Truck Bed Liner. The product details indicate you roll it on and that it can be used on pool decks and even vinyl tile. It should stick to ABS. I think I'll buy a quart and test it out.
Mario, a lot of the Jeep guys that I use to hang out with used Herculiner inside the tub of the Jeep for easy cleanup and rust prevention in case it got wet. It worked well for that and was very tough.
The only hesitation I may have on it is the way it looks. If you are wanting to do the outside of your upper body you might not be pleased with the final finish since it is lumpy and kinda looks like the back side of a dull shingle. Just try it out somewhere first. If you are using it elsewhere I think you will be pleased.
As for the hand between the Max and the building, the only close call I had was in that video of mine where I'm going into the culvert. I grabbed onto the roll bar and it almost scraped the side of the culvert with my hand on it
poly plastic cant be painted,even fusion paint with heat and paint wont work it will scratch off.I have tried everything there is out there,but if you want to camo it out check out this place www.camoextreme.com.Thats what im going to use.You wont like the way rhino looks try it out undernth the body and you will see what I mean
Last edited by wildtexasranger; 07-12-2007 at 08:36 AM.
Thanks for the tip Wildtexasranger (Fellow LE?),
I had my doubts about being able to paint over poly too. I checked out the camo site, cool stuff and it is removable. If you do this post some photos
Mike; Thank you for the insight. I will denfinately get just a quart and try it out on an unexposed area. I was looking to go with the gray color and would prefer it to look dull and military-like. When I complete the experiment I will post the results with photos.
I hate to be a nay-sayer about Rhino/Herculiner, but I have experience with it both on poly (HDPE) and metal. The preparation of the surface is absolutely critical. I can't stress it enough. The surface needs to be completely free of any grease, oil, dust, loose paint, etc. It does stick to poly (albeit weakly), but once a small piece begins to flake off (from a scratch, etc.) it'll come off in sheets. There isn't enough bonding between the Herculiner and the super slick plastic surface in my opinion. The idea of sealing up the plastic is a great idea, but I think there are better routes. Wild Texas Ranger is absolutely right about the fusion paint, too. It'll stick for a bit, but it comes off in pieces/ sheets once the elements have a way to get between the plastic and the paint.
There are a lot of other options for protecting the bottom of the amphibs. I've just ordered some 1/4" HDPE sheets for the bottom of the 4-stroke project, which will be riveted (a-la Max skid plates) to the lower most regions of the Attex. If they really get damaged, I can swap 'em out for new ones. HDPE is like butter in your hands with little heat, and can conform well to a lot of curves if you're patient. Also, it's slicker than owl snot, and provides good abrasion resistance. Aluminum skids would likely be even better, but it might be a little bit harder to work with, and a bit more pricey. HDPE is my favorite new material. You can cut it with a rotozip/dremel easily, drill it, rivet it, melt it, bend it, and it durability is admirable.
I LIKE IT DIRTY*HOG WILD*
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
