Huster 900 T-20

[duckhunt81]

Yesteryday I took the 900 out for it's first pilot run. Noticed that I had a leak on one of the output shafts, and bent a trans shift cable. I was wondering if anyone had some pics of the factory linkage set-up used on the later Hustlers and how hard is it to put seals on? Will I have to split the trans?

[Don]

Yes, you have to split the transmission to change seals, and while it's apart it's a good idea to change all the seals and O-rings. I've never seen the cable-operated Hustler trans setup, but I'd like to see a picture of it.

[jpswift1]

Yes, you have to split the transmission to change seals, and while it's apart it's a good idea to change all the seals and O-rings. I've never seen the cable-operated Hustler trans setup, but I'd like to see a picture of it.

Hey Don, you're not the only one.....of all of the Hustlers that I've come across, I've never seen one with the cable shifters. I've heard of a handful of 6x6World members talking about their early Hustler 900's with the cable shifters, but I really don't know how the set up works. Here is a picture of a later model Hustler shifter set up.

[duckhunt81]

Thanks for the replys, I'll post some pics in the a.m.

In the 2nd pic. Are the vertical bars in the front, that the round bar passes through, weld to the frame?

Ok, if I'm tearing into the trans what other wearable parts should I replace?

[jpswift1]

Thanks for the replys, I'll post some pics in the a.m.

In the 2nd pic. Are the vertical bars in the front, that the round bar passes through, weld to the frame?

Ok, if I'm tearing into the trans what other wearable parts should I replace?

Yes, the two rectangular bars weld to the frame. The round rod that sits horizontally fits through and pivots in a hole in the two vertical pieces that are welded to the frame.

[duckhunt81]

Personally, a bad design. Especially how the cables bend up between the motor and trans. Which you can see in the older pic without the motor in, just imagine what it is like the the Kohler 440 in there. Tight is an understatement.

[duckhunt81]

When I separated the T-20, I noticed that where the splined shaft comes through the mid-plate, the “collar” (for lack of a better word) that looks to support the shaft had some wear. If you will look at the attached picture you can see a jagged edge. (sorry for such a blurry pic)

I have also noticed that when I did have the trans together that there was a lot of play in and out. I assumed that this was normal, but now I am unsure. It is almost like this could be a problem. Any input would help.

Also the splines on the shaft has some burrs where it looks like the splines were rubbing the “collar”.

[duckhunt81]

Anybody know how much the mid-plate in the T-20 cost?

[duckhunt81]

A Little update on this thread.
To the previous post about the mid-plate. YES, that is bad.
Come to find out, there is supposed to be a washer between the shaft gear and the “collar”. Mine had no evidence of one ever being there. Could have been, but it has been long gone to have this much wear. Got another T-20, Most problems solved…


My Hustler originally had the T-20 split cable set-up. When the cables failed on my first trail run, I trashed that idea. I’m now in the process of designing a linkage system loosely based on a picture Don posted of his Super Swap Fox set-up. BTW, a big thanks to Don for that. Those Gallery pics really do help, Great resource!

Anyway. I’m having an over centering issue with the gear selectors. I think I can solve it with limiting stops that will limit the travel of the selectors. I was hoping someone could help me determine how much minimum travel I need to fully engage into forward and reverse.

If I could get some measurements from:
neutral to forward ?
neutral to reverse ?
Over-All?

I’ve attached A picture to maybe help clarify what I’m asking for.