DW I have three planetary gears. The only drums I have are 9 tooth, and my extra output sprockets are badly worn. I'll send you a PM.
DW I have three planetary gears. The only drums I have are 9 tooth, and my extra output sprockets are badly worn. I'll send you a PM.
That's all good boss. I appreciate any and all help in any form even if it's just bringing me back to reality from planning for problems that don't exist.
One last piece I noticed while gathering up the t20 from laying it out, one sun gear I think is the name, one of the little guys on the input shaft. Matt said he can get me a drum and then just another driven clutch, this one's gonna eat belts like no tomorrow, it is very badly pitted on the sheeves, everything else seems to be fine.
DanW
A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.
Dan,
I have a good sun gear from my parts t20, and yesterday I ordered a new driven clutch for my machine. The original driven is good enough to run, as I ran it for about an hour and a half test run and it did fine. I had some wobble in the clutch that didn't appear to be bothering anything. I think the wobble was from the input shaft, but I'm replacing it anyway. Let me know if you want it.
Dan,
I'm putting in the mail today 3 planetary gears, 1 sun gear with C clip, and a driven clutch. The bearings in the planetary gears look and feel good, but you will need to clean them out good. They have been laying around and are dirty, so take some carb cleaner and spray the bearings out really good. This should wash out any grit. The driven clutch is ready to go. I took it apart and cleaned it before I ran it, and it has 3 brand new shoes on it.
Good luck.
I can't thank you enough dirtdobber, I'm going to try and get the welding finished tomorrow, as well as paint the frame and the parts Martin already had primed. Then I need to figure out if it's worthwhile to have 6 1-1/4" axles made or have new made for the really bad ones. They aren't all horrible but one or two appear to have been welded before and are egged pretty severely, along with the sprockets on those axles. It will be a big investment, I just don't know if it's worth the coin or just upgrade as they break? I think for now the old briggs oppy will be last priority since they are simple enough to rebuild, heavy old beasts though. Thank you again for the help and support, every little bit makes that light at the end shine a bit brighter. Have a great weekend all, I will report back with more later.
DanW
The more I think, the more I, uh, think? If the 50 chain is more than adequate, and these machines seem to be somewhat overbuilt, or at least built heavier than a max, is it even worth spending the money on 1-1/4" steel for axles? I know a 1/16" isn't going to change much price wise, until I add sprockets and tube and pay my welder buddy to machine and weld them. These 35+/- year old axles really aren't the worst I've seen in my short experience, but definitely need attention. What kind of steel would you guys recommend? I'm just going to have two at a time made starting with the worst. Then as maintenance comes and bearings need changed I will do the rest.
I'm really glad I learned alot from my max, it's making planning so much smoother. And I'm glad for you guys input and help. Thanks again.
Also, how many hustlers do I need to be a hustlemaniac?🇺🇸😜
DanW
I use 1144 stress proof shaft material.
Bud's 950 race machine (Alice) still has the 1 3/16" axles, which have been extended by 1", plus have 2" spacers at the wheels, putting lots more stress on them. We've only bent one in years of racing, and he's not real gentle with it. I'd guess new 1 3/16" axles would do your 980 fine, especially if you use 1144 steel.
Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.
(6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far