JLO clutch in Attex

[Brad Salutes]

Hi,

A little history upfront...

I started tearing into the Attex I picked up recently. It has sat about 23 years. It has a JLO twin (I think it is a 399cc). Well, first off, no spark. Pulled the flywheel, cleaned up the points and pickups. For good measure I also pulled the heads to check the pistons and bore out. Everything was good (the heads are stamped underneath with 399, thats why I think it is a 399CC, but I really don't know because the motor tag is gone). I put it all back together and what do you know, great spark. Dumped some pre-mix into the cylinders and it fired right up!!

Next was the carb. It was off the engine, partially disassembled and laying in the tub when I got. The choke was frozen so I let it soak for about three days. Finally got it apart with a little heat. The slide has been out of the Mikuni for the whole time it has been sitting. It did not want to go back into the bore. I picked up a few flapper wheels and honed the bore for the slide, After getting it nice and shiny I finished cleaning up the rest of the carb and put it back together.

I put the carb back on the engine hooked up a remote gas tank (original tank is gone) and fired up the engine, runs perfect!!!!

Now my problem.

The primary clutch was frozen up pretty solid. I took off the cover and cleaned all the crud and rust off the arms, springs and rollers (rollers are still pretty tight). With the spring tension removed, I still can't get the outer sheave to break loose. I have been soaking it with WD and PB blaster for about 4 days.

Does anyone have any ideas on breaking this loose????
Does anyone have an operational clutch for sale???


Thanks
Brad

[6X6]

Hi:
HEAT! The center shaft is steel, but the sheave is (I think) aluminum, (it is on mine). I just had to get 2 broken screws out for the cover today, and heat works great. I think you are mechanically inclined enough to know this, but don't look for a glow on aluminum, because it'll just melt. Use a brazing torch on low or a propane torch on high, and get a good bit of heat on it, and use PB blaster, Don has stated it has a high flash-point, and he has a lot of experience with this. Anyway, the aluminum will heat up faster than the steel shaft and so will expand more, just use a rubber mallet and it should come free easy enough to annoy you that it became that easy, if not, then a little more heat and hits. (I'm sure you know, but no hard hammers or hard hits on the aluminum; untill your fed up and want to buy a new one anyway)

[Brad Salutes]

Thanks,

That is where I was going next. I let it soak the last few days, I will probably heat it up tonight!!

Brad

[Brad Salutes]

6X6,

I heated the sheave up last night and kept tapping on it, after about 20 minutes of heat and tapping I finally got it loosened up. I kept working it back and forth with some WD.
It looks like there was a ton of oxidation on the guides and around the center section. I wire brushed everything and soaked it down again last night and this morning. The only thing left that was still pretty stuck were the rollers. Hopefully tonight I can get them loosened up enough to put it back together and try it out.
I have a question. Have you pulled the part (I think it is called a spider) off of your clutch that has the ramps. Does it unscrew?? If I can remove this I can get everything cleaned up like new. Thanks again.

Brad

[powerzap69]

for those of you with rusty parts, the best process i've ever found is drop the part into a vat of water with 100 to 1 muriatic acid. then apply voltage to the water and connect the negative from a battery charger to your metal. keep well ventalated. make sure the posative lead and the part do not come into contract. wait two days and it will look like brand new. once out of the water be sure to coat it with something otherwise it will rust fast.