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In the name of simplicity (working with what I have already), I think I'll just leave the key out and grease the tapered axle shaft. Then drill a hole through the threaded portion of the axle and use a nut/cotter pin similar to that on a trailer hub. Re-install hub and tighten nut enough so that cotter pin can be installed without risk of nut reversing direction. Easy to remove and replace the key and original nut if need be. It would allow the hub to turn "slightly" in relation to the axle if need be. Maybe use a thick UHMW washer behind the nut. It wouldn't hurt to drill/tap a zerk in the hub to line up with the recessed keyway.
This is an exellent idea. When I owned a Mudd-Ox I had both sets of inside wheel hubs loosen. I'm surprised that Matt has'nt made this change himself on the new Mudd-Ox machines?
don't do it the hubs are much softer then the axle and it will wallow out the inside of the hub and make it useless. As I stated we sheared a key way and hub was ruined in 10 miles and lasted 100 miles. It might last longer on a middle wheel in tracks but I think it is still not going to work for long.
thanks Mark, more good information and what I needed to know. I've considered doing this only because in theory, the hub shouldn't even really spin on the axle...unlike driving on wheels. While tracked, it should still spin "with" the axle 99+% but could move just a little bit if needed. Without a bearing, I would expect the friction to do just like you describe- in short order.
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